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phil box |
The inaugural Qurank film festival (Redcliffs) - TR and pics |
Lead | |
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manacubus |
links to pics | ||
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Phil's pics
www.pbase.com/phil_box/qu...m_festival My pics qurank.smugmug.com/gallery/8845 Simon's pics www.pbase.com/simon_vos/r...e&page=all |
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Unregistered(d) |
Re: The inaugural Qurank mountain film festival Redcliffs | ||
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Thanks guys for a fab weekend in sunny Queensland. Next year we need a big video projector!
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phil box |
Re: The inaugural Qurank mountain film festival Redcliffs | ||
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For those that weren`t there, 17 people were gathered round a 12 inch screen. A big screen or projection tv will definitely be the go for next year.
...Phil...
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yama |
film fest | ||
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Was this a closed event? I cant remember seeing any posts about it.
Josh. |
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phil box |
Re: film fest | ||
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No it was not a closed event. The reason it wasn`t advertised is that it all kinda just happened. It wasn`t planned at all. An email went around to a couple of us who know Neil and who have climbed at Redcliffs before and presto before our very eyes we had ourselves an event.
We will make this thing very public next year, you will definitely have plenty of notice. Smatter fact hows about some of you budding mini dv camera operators throwing something together over the coming 12 months to enter something in the next Qurank film festival. Venue to be announced but it will be at a cliff somewhere near SEQ. ...Phil...
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yama |
Its a date then :) | ||
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We will have to start now to give you, Lee and Neil a run for your money.
Have you ever thought of having yearly awards analogous to 'Climbing' mag's "Golden Piton Awards" at this festival or another even. I am a bit surprised that 'Rock' not started something like this. Josh. |
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manacubus |
Trip report | ||
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I was writing an email to a mate about the weekend and thought it could serve as the basis for a bit of a trip report. Obviously there were heaps of people there so I couldn't include everyone's exploits. In fact, this is fairly me-centric so for that I apologise.
We had a successful first weekend of the season out at Redcliffs. It was a spectacle. 17 people and five 4WD vehicles made the 1.5 bush bash in there. My mate Neil (who I went to the States with) came up from Melbourne and it was his first trip out there. Simon Vos had put the word out to the Uni clubs, hence the crazy number of people. This time, the creek was flowing at the bottom of the gorge, so the outlook was a bit less 'dry' than usual. The entire first day for me was spent cleaning new routes, drilling, and bolting. I was also taking the odd picture. Neil climbed about five of the classic routes this day, along with cleaning and bolting his own new route. His warmup was the 4m roof of Pendulus (23) which he fell off and took a big swing into space before getting back on and nailing it second shot. Cameron and James were hard at work trundling massive blocks off their new routes. At the end of the day, I dropped a rope over this prow. The big prow has got my sport route Revenant (25) on it, which tops out about 5m right of where I'm standing in the pic. The proposed new route tops out where I'm standing. I rapped down the line and gave it a clean. Very overhanging and scary too, because I found natural gear placements on it, so I couldn't in good conscience put whopping ringbolts in it. That night I ate barbequed Red Emperor with Phil and Neil and I did a movie showing from TV in the back of Phil?s truck. We started with my Blue Mountains video (5 mins), then Neil's Baffin Island climbing documentary (30 mins) and finished with Salt, Sea & Slopers - my Point Perpendicular video (5 mins). It went down very well. On the second day I actually did some climbing. Neil sent his new route at 18. Neil wanted to take some piccies, so I took off my helmet and jumped on one of my new routes which is 30m long and traverses out to a very exposed position on an undercut arĂȘte. As soon as I made it out onto the arĂȘte, Phil (who was above me on a rope) dislodged a fist-sized rock which hit a ledge and flew diagonally down and smashed me in the head, drawing blood. That'll teach me for climbing without a helmet. Thankfully I didn't fall off, and topped out on the new route grading it 21. I also managed to get up Shark's Fin second shot, a nice 23 of Cameron's which Neil onsighted with ease. Simon pretty much onsighted it as well. Cameron and James climbed their new short routes at 17, 22 and 23. Neil did the sport-climbing thing, and rapped down Revenant (25), tickmarked the holds, placed the draws and then proceeded to flash it. Not bad for the hardest route on the cliff. It's amazing what a difference pre-inspection makes. What a dog! At the end of the day I got Phil to give me a top rope on my proposed new prow route. I did climb it cleanly, but it was pretty hard, with four big heelhooks. The prospect of doing it on natural gear scared me. A lot of people left on the second day, so there was only eight of us left on day three. I woke up early thinking about the new route. I grabbed Phil and headed down to the prow. A top rope would be a good warm up and would hopefully settle my nerves, and allow me to suss out the protection one final time. The top rope went smoothly so I was now ready to go, tied into two ropes with the gear all perfectly racked on my harness. I started up the route Orange Overhang, a scantily protected 17. Three pieces of protection in 15m got me to beneath the roof and a sitdown rest. I then put two big cams in biscuit-like strata and equalised them with a webolette. They got clipped to my second rope. Standing up, I put in three yellow aliens. Two of these were equalised and the top one was clipped singly to the second rope. With five pieces in at this stance, I dropped my first rope and was committed to the overhang above. Pulling through the lip with a heelhook gives a welcome pocket and a big move to a juggy ledge. From the ledge I reached down a plunged my new purple alien (#1.5 friend-sized) into the pocket I'd just used. Another heelhook on the ledge with a small undercling allowed me to throw in a high #1 friend in a crack. This would be my last pro for the route. A couple of technical moves led to a fin which you layoff and pinch to get another heelhook up high and a very long reach to a good hold before the top. The well rehearsed moves came off nicely and I topped out very happy. It was my own little personal Hard Grit challenge. At this stage, I was very happy I hadn't placed any bolts. Parthian Shout (23) is now Redcliffs' hardest trad route. After climbing a few other existing routes I hadn't done, I took some pics of Simon and Jerome having attempts on Revenant. To his credit, Simon attempet the onsight, placing the draws. Neither of the guys got the route cleanly, but I am certain they will on their next attempts. The weekend was a huge success. Redcliffs now has 58 routes, and I'm sure there is a few more to go. |
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phil box |
Re: Trip report | ||
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Good write up Lee. The best thing about the weekend for me was the company of all my old friends plus a whole new bunch of newest bestest friends.
The all time highlight though was watching Neil Jenman (not Neil Monteith from Victoria) fall up Pendulus. Neil got himself well established in the bellchamber within the ceiling section of Pendulus. He was able to achieve the no hands rest and he pretty much completely dissapeared up in that roof. Every now and then one could see a hand snaking down towards the lip and the prehung draw. He eventually snagged the draw only to begin to wonder how he was going to clip it from such an awkward position. Much to the hilarity of all watching he worked his foot out and took a bite of rope with his foot and then worked the rope towards the biner on the draw. This is the first time I have ever seen a draw clipped with someones foot, on a roof. I got that all on tape too so I`m looking forward to seeing that sequence. Neil had then to work out how he was going to get below his mess of ropes that he was crouched above. First one leg and then the other was seen to have the rope passed around. Neil then curled up into a ball and dropped out of the ceiling much to everyones amazement. A shout went up that the roof had given birth to a boy. I must add that Pendulus has a perfect viewing platform for the peanut gallery. He then proceeded to flail his way around the lip eventually gaining a stance with his feet right on the lip and him standing vertically and hanging on with fear written all over his face. A problem had developed with his rope snagged in the v groove at the lip. Neil Monteith who was jugging close by on my Bluewater rescue rope (wire cable for those that know how stiff these ropes can become) told him to jump off and that would free it up. I told him that if he jumped off that would cut the rope (it wouldn`t but it was a laugh watching him quaking in fear at the lip). Neil Monteith took pity on him and swung across and freed the rope Neil M then hauled up some rope while Neil J clipped. Great team effort there guys. I`ve never laughed so hard at someones predicament on a climb as what I did that day. Another amusing anecdote I must relate is when a couple of the girls went wandering down the creek. They had previously heard all the stories of rednecks in the area. So as they were creeping around they were fully expecting a redneck to jump out from behind a tree weilding a banjo. At least that kept them from wandering away and getting lost. Awesome weekend but I was grizzling a bit at my inability to do too much due to my recently broken wrist. Still I did manage to do a little bit of work on my new route to the right of Pendulus with a great deal of help from Cameron. Thanks all for heading out there and making it a fabo time for everyone. ...Phil...
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Psycho Rob |
Re: Trip report | ||
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Is the guide updated? Would Phil have an updated guide? I want to go and have a look there asap.. I haven't been there for ages and have a lot of things to try.
Rob |
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manacubus |
Re: Trip report | ||
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The updated PDF is not yet available due to PDFing issues with my computer.
theCrag.com is updated though. |
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phil box |
Re: Trip report | ||
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Hey Rob you had better get your project done, I saved it for you several times now. There`s been many a jealous eye cast over that wall mate. I dunno if I can hold off the masses of new routers for too much longer.
...Phil...
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Unregistered(d) |
Re: Trip report | ||
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Yere - within the first 5 minutes of me being at Redcliffs I was asking him permisison to bolt Rob's line. Sadly he told me it was taken. I was tempted to sneak back at night and steal it.
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Psycho Rob |
Re: Trip report | ||
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I am heading down there one afternoon this week to clean it up a bit. Hallam and I will have a look and hopefully, work it out a bit on TR.
I've got the best name for it too - I just have to get there Rob |
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Psycho Rob |
Re: Trip report | ||
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Hallam and I went down there yesterday afternoon. There is probably room for 2 routes up the small wall. I would like to install a belay ring for each tho - so as to make it safer. We cleaned quite a few loose blocks off the ledge at the base and I top-roped the right hand 'route'. There are a couple of spots natural gear could go but I would like a second opinion on the rock quality. I have determined possible bolt placements too. Hallam then tried it and topped out as the sun had gone down over the ridge. We deceded to call it a day and I climbed out (on top belay) up the left hand 'route'. There are some nice moves on both climbs. I have to go back and remove a few more loose rocks both from the top of the cliff and from the crack on the left climb. They should be sweet - but they are only short
Rob |
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manacubus |
Re: Trip report | ||
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A belay ring? Where? At the base? That would be ugly, especially if there were two.
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Psycho Rob |
Re: Trip report | ||
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I was thinking maybe 1 in the middle for both. I am comfy standing there (it is a bit dirty and slopy) but I thought it might add for safety. I was thinking of the ring you have set up below Tartarus.
Phil, what is the go with the ring bolts? Can you get them (you know which ones you use and prefer) and I can fix you up afterwards? What about the glue too? Let me know. Rob |
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phil box |
Re: Trip report | ||
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All organised, worry not Rob.
...Phil...
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manacubus |
Re: Trip report | ||
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There'll have to be a belay of some kind, I agree. If that's a ring (as for Cerberus), so be it.
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Psycho Rob |
Belay | ||
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didn't look like I could get any pro in for belay
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phil box |
Re: Belay | ||
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We`ll check it out on Saturday and talk about it then
...Phil...
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