Issues on Smoked Banana Anchor
We were up at the Smoked Banana anchor yesterday and came across a couple of issues.
1. 2 of the 3 anchor bolts had very loose nuts. I've included a photo below. Are these expansion bolts? I took one nut off completely and the bolt didn't want to come out. This is a very high traffic anchor in the season with plenty of people setting up top ropes on it. So I guess anyone should be aware of this possibility and check the bolts when you're up there. I was able to tighten them well with the socket that is on the back of my nut tool.
2. At the same anchor there is a rock next to the one with the anchor on it. My partner had put a cam in the crack between these two rocks (a #0.75 I think) and had built an anchor between this and the bolts. I was sitting with my back leaning on this rock and my legs over the edge. Very comfy. When Paul leant back with his safety on his anchor I felt this rock move significantly. This was only gradual body weight. It is a big rock and very close to the edge.
Once again, given that this is a fairly high traffic anchor this is firstly a warning to those heading up there. Particularly if thinking about setting up a top rope. Secondly though, should we think about doing something with it? It would potentially do a fair bit of damage to the bush and track below if trundled.
I can just see one of Dave's "wierd ++#@" scenarios playing out though. Someone leads SB and sets up a top rope for all their Frog newbie friends who are all sitting around below enjoying the surroundings. They arrive at the anchor and find that one or two of the bolt nuts are missing so they build a nice trad anchor incorporating some cams placed in the beautiful crack right there. Big friend 1 has a go at the climb but it is a fair way about their ability. The belayer hasn't quite kept up with the rope so when they fall they drop a little. This is enough force on the anchor to pop the boulder off its position. chaos ensues. the end.
Rock in question marked with red arrow. You can see the anchor on the left for scale on the second shot. There is a gully to the right of it too with nothing supporting it on that side.