Holy calamity screaming insanity in Safer Cliffs Queensland Forum

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Holy calamity screaming insanity

Author	Comment
screeman	Holy calamity screaming insanity	Lead	[-]
Sketchy leader 5 years ( 4-Feb-12 5:58 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Remove this ad hey guys Looks like the glue is decomposing out of the first three bolts, and water is seeping through them. The left anchor bolt of holy calamity is loose and sitting proud. First post here so I hope this a good place. Cheers Andy
manacubus		#1	[-]
( 4-Feb-12 11:02 PM) Shhh! Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Hi Andy I performed the rebolt of Screaming/Wholly on 9/2/10. Glue was bagged before and after and was fine (i.e. rock solid). The glue is PowerFastPro Epoxy which is usually inert, super strong and all round great glue. However, in mid 2011 we noted a weird gloss/tackiness on the surface of the glue. And it wasn't just Screaming, but also on other routes at Coolum where this glue was used by others (different tubes). When something like this happens you either have a surface reaction happening where the glue interfaces with the elements, or the glue is bad right through. I decided the only way to clear this up was to proof load the bolts. I determined the third bolt of Screaming was most affected, and on 4/9/11 I tested the bolt to AS1891 (applied 7.5kN in tension for 2 minutes using calibrated Hilti industrial test rig). The bolt happily passed this test, and I logged the results in the SCQ database. If the glue was bad or had broken down throughout the whole fixing, I feel 750kg straight out for two minutes would have seen it creep, and it was fine. From this very controlled test I am confident these bolts aren't going anywhere, and are safe for continued use. When 12 months has elapsed, I plan to replicate the test. That said, I am pretty annoyed with PowerFastPro. It's supposed to be THE glue to use, and at every other crag I have used it at it is awesome. Coolum once again proves to be a pretty caustic environment. Cheers Lee
rightarmbad		#2	[-]
Steve McClure 8 years ( 5-Feb-12 8:09 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	So is the anchor bolt loos or not? Follow the path of the independent thinker. Expose your ideas to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that are important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.--- Thomas J. Watson
Freysa		#3	[-]
Tentative rockjock 1 year ( 5-Feb-12 9:17 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I tightened that anchor bolt and checked the other which was tight .
TrisTheClimber		#4	[-]
Tomáš Mrázek 6 years ( 6-Feb-12 3:36 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Remove this ad Would it be worth contacting Powers about this issue to seek the guidance of their chemists?
davereeve		#5	[-]
Dani Andrada 5 years ( 6-Feb-12 7:06 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I've taken a bit of time to research what might be going on here. The chemical resistance of epoxy resins is high. The PF Pro data sheet confirms this with some data that shows things like sodium, calcium and chloride ions from the maritime environment can be discounted as causative. Epoxy resins are subject to UV degradation, but Coolum is a cave, while KP gets absolutely blasted by the sun but doesn't show this problem. In cases like this, suspicion falls back to microbial attack. The lack of direct sunlight, and the continuous high moisture levels make microbial attack a possibility. From what little information I could find by googling, it seems that epoxy resins are superior to other resins in terms of microbial resistance, but never the less cases of microbial degeneration have been recorded. If I'm right in my conjecture, then what does this mean for the security of the bolts? ........... I haven't a clue, conjecture one layer deep is where I bail out. Maybe, we should pull test them on a regular basis...... at least those bolts whose failure could cause a ground fall?
ross ferguson		#6	[-]
Alexander Huber 8 years ( 6-Feb-12 7:26 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Maybe, we should pull test them on a regular basis...... at least those bolts whose failure could cause a ground fall? Great idea. Perhaps we could get one of the locals to do it? I used PF Pro on the rings in my project at Coolum. They have been in a couple of years now and looked ok the other day. I have been using this glue for a long time. Like Lee said, its great and haven't had any troubles. Ross..
davereeve		#7	[-]
Dani Andrada 5 years ( 7-Feb-12 7:50 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Agreed Ross.... PF Pro is ideal in all sorts of ways for what we do. I don't think we need to start looking at alternatives, because if it is microbial attack then anything else is going to go the same way........ unless its made of teflon, or glass
screeman		#8	[-]
Sketchy leader 5 years ( 7-Feb-12 9:37 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Remove this ad Thanks Frey and Lee for your efforts in keeping them up to scratch.

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Holy calamity screaming insanity

Holy calamity screaming insanity