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devlin |
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and self flagellate some more. Hmmm.... I could make a rare appearance this weekend.
Real men pull down in silence.
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thisrod |
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I spent Thursday and Friday at Frog with Jerome, and sent Satanic Majesty at last. I don't remember exactly what I did at the crux. I looked up at it from
the the ledge, reminded myself where the holds were and what gear I was going to place, started climbing without a firm plan to do the hardest move, did
something I hadn't tried before, and found myself at the start of the hand crack. I'd climbed a lot over the past month, and was focusing better and
climbing more boldly than I have before, but I'd been getting progressively weaker, I assumed from lack of recovery. The rain gave me an excuse to get some
rest just when I felt that I needed to.
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Sister matt |
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Me Working the crux of Weapon of choice
The Kneebar Kid |
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Oli3Bhoy |
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Some more photos from today are in the link below. http://www.flickr.com/photos/39857152@N02/ Still
uploading so more will come, just switched over from webshots to flickr, all my photos will be added soon.
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damodamodamo |
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Great work Rod! So, is it still a 23 with that hold gone? ((nice photo's matt/oliver))
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thisrod |
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I think it's still 23. Once I found protection that I trusted, it only took me three attempts to climb it. It's tricky to judge, because the grade
comes from one move, which some people find easier than others do.
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jjobrien |
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I did Caught by the Fuzz 25 at Coolum. Man, I've never been so beaten up by a 25. Apart from large areas of skin loss on my back, I gave the roof an
upper-cut with my right fist while throwing for a high jug. The rock is hardly damaged, but for my sins I got a new knuckle on the back of my hand and a whole
world of pain. That was on the second shot of the day, fortunately the swelling didn't really set in till after I sent it next shot. Can't move my hand
today.
Climb hard - or kneebar, your choice.
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thisrod |
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Not even Qurank posters are gullible enough to fall for that story, J.J. Admit it: you've been crack climbing.
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Sister matt |
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Ticked Weapon of choice today, my hardest route. 8th shot.
The Kneebar Kid |
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phil box |
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thisrod wrote:Sssshhhhhh, it's his dirty little secret.
...Phil...
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Oli3Bhoy |
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More photos from Coolum today are being added to my flickr account and more photos from yesterday can now be viewed because i upgraded to a pro account.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39857152@N02/ |
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Peter OHalloran |
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That is sensational Matt, well done.
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davereeve |
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Awesome Matt
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jjobrien |
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Hey, fantastic Matt, I didn't know you were that close.
Climb hard - or kneebar, your choice.
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jjobrien |
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If I take up crack climbing I now have a range of hand sizes to fit different cracks. Col, I could just about stuff an off-width with this beauty.
Climb hard - or kneebar, your choice.
Last Edited By: manacubus
27/07/09 11:09 AM.
Edited 1 times.
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davereeve |
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Errrgh......JJ, isn't this the second time you've tried to make holds in blank rock? About time you gave up this futile practice.
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Radest |
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Mike JJ Tyson. That why you were so quit after the fall. Pretty inspiring. no winging just taking care of the business. Let's see how the route mature with
more ascents. Good stuff sister, you brought your big gun's to send first shot of the day. Oliver said he arrive later at the crag? just wonder who was
belaying you. Excellent pics Oliver, must had the CannonAK47 on full automatic to take those shots.
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Dazza Noosa |
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Top stuff Matt!!! You sussed out those wierd moves real quick and the endurance speaks for its self. See, climbing it wet last week did help. What next, Knee
Bar Too Far?
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Dazza Noosa |
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Matt, spotted your comments from the first page of this thread a year ago:
"I went to caves yesterday ( monday ) and finally got the dog ascent on chevy motor with 1 rest at last bolt!" What a difference a year can make!! |
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Sister matt |
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Haha the Ol Chevy Epic. Something like 30 shots.
Radest, Allan was belaying me. I might now do spoonman or 4 metres of madness. Cheers and thanks The Kneebar Kid |
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