JohnMc wrote:
thisrod
I will ignore for the moment that KP is not a cliff but actually a picnic area quary and assume it is a piece of natural cliff provided my allah for our enjoyment.
By placing bolts on CC you have already conceeded that it is not climbable using modern traditional means. Therefor the bolts are there for one reason. That reason is to protect the climber. If you use the bolts to gain advantage then that is called aid climbing. If you just clip the bolts but do not weight them, then that is called sport climbing. I assume you know this but seem to think that the bolt helps you climb.
Clipping the bolt does not make it an easier route. Infact, hanging from one hand, and dragging out more rope than you need is actually more difficult than just climbing past the bolt.
I am pretty sure that I am not alone in my climbing skill of being able to climb past a bolt. I have seen several "super hero" types like myself climb straight past a bolt they don't think is worth clipping.
The only argument I can see against adding an extra bolt is that someone has already climbed it without the bolt and does not want the extra bolt added because the kudos of having ticked the climb is some how deminished. But that would just be a ego issue with nothing to do with adventure.
John, I believe that it was a climbing area way before it was a picnic area. Before it was a climbing area it was an acceptable area for a certain demografic to consume drugs and petrol. I agree that bolts do not "help" you climb a climb but your sure help you mentally when you first decide weather you will attempt it. I suppose this is where the crux of the issue is for me. Some people climb for physical reasons and others mental reasons. The careful placement of bolts by some first assenstionists can create what is generally accepted a "quality" climb that can separate the mundane from the exceptional. To many bolts it looses its individual character. To few and nobody will ever repeat it and everybody thinks you are a dick. Just the correct amount (general consensus) and you get a gem. Usually you can tell it has the correct amount when it becomes a popular "reputation" climb. this is not about ego but for most I think it is more about personal satisfaction, this is what separates some 18 from other 18's. Trent if you would rather toprope everything sell your rack and stay in the gym. with the money from your rack get some climbing history books. read these books. When you understand what it is (this climbing thing) buy your rack back including rp's and light weight slings. Even call Colin and borrow his drill and find a face somewhere it does not matter. Trent & John have you not ever, not even once been told about a route. Researched it. dreamt it... Called a mate, orginised a trip, walked in a long way. Stood at the bottom and got psyched up and just gone for it. You start well clipping a few bolts and do the moves reaching the crux. you get above it, it's run out and a bad fall. your mates are cheering (thanking their lucky stars it's you and not them that had the stupid idea of climbing the pile of choss). You have a moment of self doubt but bury it just as quickly. You make that anchors shaking. YES............. I have sweaty palms now. Do you? This is what climbing is about. SO DON'T PLACE AN EXTRA BOLT OR THIS FEELING WILL BE LOST FOREVER. If this does not explain it read Rudyard Kipling's "if". If I fail with this just add the bloody bolt!











