Maroon North Face

feeds@yuku.com (Trent) — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 15:23:39 GMT

I had my first close look at the massive north face of Mt Maroon. Wombby took Andy and I for a look at one of the easier routes up there: The Tiger Face Escape Route. It climbs up the corner where the graveyard ridge meets the north face. The first pitch, which is apparently the hardest, climbed up a crack about 20m in height. The last part was a hand crack at the back of a corner. It reminded me a lot of Neon Philharmonic, which is a grade 17 at Frog. We ended up running out of time, and...

First Free Ascent of Queensland's longest route

feeds@yuku.com (Gareth) — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:18:28 GMT

Made you look!! Ha ha.

It is actually true but it was just Ross and I playing silly buggers at Kangaroo Point. (correct me if I'm wrong, there might be a longer one)
We started at about 8am on Pocket Calculator (left of Steaming Wally) and finished at about 2pm at the top of Olos Slab. Climbed 375m in total, a lot of it in 36 degree heat. Felt like we were moving pretty slow once the sun...

Rockhampton climbing

feeds@yuku.com (aussierockrat) — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 23:16:31 GMT

Hey Gareth, spewing i didnt know you were up this way, i could have done with a worthy climbing partner over the last week or two, and there are a few real nice routes around, you just have to be in the know! If you end up back up here for work again chase me up. The place at Mt Archer is called the Play Pen, recently received an upgrade from carrots to rings, with a few new lines. There are also some National Park caves that are worth exploring, lotsa limestone.

Warrumbungles in a Weekend

feeds@yuku.com (Trent) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 21:16:53 GMT

Andy and I got down to the bungles on an extended weekend. We managed to climb Cornerstone Rib, Flight of the Phoenix, and Vertigo. Pretty stoked with summits of the major peaks. Rod and Jeremy were also down there, and they seemed to be going great. More of my Warrumbungles photos can be found here, included Rod and Jeremy climbing Phoenix and Caucasus Corner. You can also find a

25 routes in a day

feeds@yuku.com (Grant Martin) — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:39:58 GMT

Dave's birthday was on wednesday. And for his 25th birthday he suggested we do 25 routes for a big day climbing and a bit of training. Here's how it went in the short.

Climbers
Dave Chew
Grant Martin
Brett

Start 9am

Earth to Stella (21)
Dave, Grant

Surrender (19)
Grant, Dave

Prickles (20)
Dave, Grant

Halva (16)
Grant, Dave

Slippery When Wet (17)
Dave, Grant

Crap...

Halfway House new routes

feeds@yuku.com (Gareth) — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 14:16:55 GMT

Two weeks ago I went up to Halfway House with Aaron

We did DV8 and I'd just like to give it a plug. It's bloody good!
Really tenuous and desperate with a couple of hard clips. There are a
lot of hard to hold holds in the first half. We then did Black Op's
which is great also. I think the routes down that end of the ledge get
neglected a bit which I understand due to the extra scramble needed to
get there but these two at least are quality and...

Totally Clips

feeds@yuku.com (Gareth) — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:34:01 GMT

Hi All,
A couple of Tuesdays ago, Adam and I climbed Rocky's route on Barney to see what all the fuss was about. I did start writing something at the time but then didn't finish or post it.

It was good to get out and have a day's climbing but we weren't impressed with the route. The rock is mostly abysmal and the climbing follows a contrived line. There are a couple of spots where the climbing is good but when this happens it's not for very long. Perhaps 2...

Choss, Barney East Face, and The Governor

feeds@yuku.com (Trent) — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 15:53:44 GMT

Its 4pm in the afternoon and Andrew and I have climbed 250m of some of the hardest climbing I've ever done. 12 pitches of sustained sport climbing on lots of choss and heaps of exposure. Above us is the impressive summit overhangs, and 70m of more climbing before we make it to the top of the East Face and the SE...

Ben on Iron Mandible - Frog Buttress

feeds@yuku.com (Trent) — Tue, 07 Jul 2009 12:21:24 GMT

A couple of shots of Ben on Iron Mandible.

I'm back in this game (fist in the air!)

feeds@yuku.com (thiaoouba) — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 22:28:24 GMT

After not having climbed for 5 months due to a shoulder reconstruction in February, I'm happy to report that I sucessfully climbed Icehouse (16) at Ngungun today.

I've spent the last couple of weeks testing out my new shoulder at the climbing gym, and was feeling confident enough to tackle some leading again. A glorious day, with the entire cliff to ourselves. The approach to the...

The Governor, Mt Barney East Face

feeds@yuku.com (Epic Steve) — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 10:12:55 GMT

A friend and I did a top down recce of The Governor (320m, grade 22, sport) on the East Face, Mt Barney...especially since it has been raining for a few days prior. We bivvied up on the S.E Ridge at the small cleared area around the 1000m elevation, under a sea of stars. Next morning we blasted up to the East Summit for a 9:00am start rapping the route. The top belay bolts are quite easy to find and the sunny East Face was out of the blustery SW wind that was blowing. The first rap (2 x 50m...

Climbers on Ruby of India Saturday 13th June

feeds@yuku.com (Oskar) — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 08:09:05 GMT

Hi there,
We hiked up Mt Maroon on Saturday and saw a couple of climbers heading up Ruby of India. Was great to be able to sus out the route while someone was on it. We took some pictures, so if you'd like some copies, just pm us. How did you go? Did you make it up before dark? We were a bit worried when we passed you on the way down.

Welcome back to climbing - Brooyar

feeds@yuku.com (CraigMarlow) — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 20:48:52 GMT

After about two years without really touching rock, my wife and I decided to head to Brooyar for the Queens Birthday long weekend for a spot of camping and possibly a climb or two. We had a sleep in on Saturday morning and arrived at the camp ground at about 1:00pm. By the time we set up camp and had lunch, we decided our remaining daylight would be best spent checking out some of the possible climbs for the next day, the idea being to work out where to set up from the top to have a top...

Great Looking Climb at Mt Amos, Freycinet, Tasmainia

feeds@yuku.com (Dazza Noosa) — Sun, 07 Jun 2009 12:26:48 GMT

At a recent family holiday I ran up Mt Amos for a great view of WineGlass Bay. On the way I spotted this great looking crack which looked inviting even to the eye of a sport climber. After research I found that it is called Dogstyle grade 18 with stars and is mentioned to be sustained. There were a couple of bolted climbs also on the other side that looked good.

Point Perp soloing? Ack!

feeds@yuku.com (manacubus) — Thu, 28 May 2009 17:21:26 GMT

Not 100% verified, but it would appear (from 8a.nu) that last Wednesday, Toby Benham soloed Destructive Wombats (21), Northern Exposure (22), Liquid Daze (23) and ...wait for it... Eviction Order (26) at Point Perpendicular.

Here's a pic of Northern Exposure for those who aren't familiar with the Point...

Solid.

The latest fashion in keeping your rope clean and tidy

feeds@yuku.com (phil box) — Mon, 25 May 2009 12:22:00 GMT

Well here it is folks, the last word on keeping your rope clean and tidy. Just hope the missus or mum doesn't mistake laundry baskets and chuck yer good rope in with the undies and socks. Seen at Coolum on Sunday. Rad.

Early morning jiggery pokey at Coolum

feeds@yuku.com (phil box) — Sat, 16 May 2009 20:28:21 GMT

JJ O'Brien high up on his Ultraviolet route at Mt. Coolum. This pic was taken this morning really really early to capture the dawn glow. I put the ropes up the day before by solo aiding up using my new extendable stick clip. Thank you Bunnings for supplying me with an awesome and very robust extender pole. It fits my new carabiner clipping cevice perfectly.

blue mountains trip

feeds@yuku.com (wesaaa) — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:53:09 GMT

Howdy!

Not a huge review but just returned from 4th trip to blue mountains in 2 years. Many queenslanders interstate(apparently a nsw climbers nightmare when 15 in a group rock up to a crag, oh well, bloke up harden up and f off tol 1 of the other 50 crags in the blueies or trek up to qld at easter!

Highlight for me was final day in 5 finally getting lead head back and strength up, 6 leads above grade 21, flash of 'split wave'(23)(TR'd 2 years ago, failed and...

Getting lost in Apremont (Fontainebleau)

feeds@yuku.com (loque) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 20:48:51 GMT

Ok, as promised, here is a trip report form my recent sojourn in Fontainebleau.

I spent three days there, and as has already been said, this is by no means enough. In the end I stayed in a hotel in Barbizon, which is within walking distance of both Apremont and Bas Cuvier. This worked REALLY well. I could have easily spent 2 weeks doing...

A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun" 30

feeds@yuku.com (jjobrien) — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 17:36:50 GMT

I think it's time someone said something.
Late last year I made a few trips up to the summit caves of Tibrogargen with Lee. He was working on "Beast from the East" 29, I had a few shots too, but after he ticked the Beast he started eyeing off the ridiculous country between Beast and In Between dreams.
We both worked on bolting it. For my part I vaguely remember some horrifying swing to a giant grappling hook placement, and then praying to the God Ramset that everything...

Trip Reports and Pictures